Monday, 19 January 2015

Victorian beauty ideals- Beauty and Cosmetics 1550-1950 by Sarah Jane Downing



Beauty and Cosmetics 1550-1950 By Sarah Jane Downing.

This book discusses how views on beauty and cosmetics has changed over time and how the use of products was viewed differently by different people. The book describes that at the beginning of the 1800’s before the Victorian era the use of products such as powders, pastes and paints to achieve beauty was seen as cheating beauty and that if a women had to do this then she was defiantly not beautiful underneath it. It was also seen as cheating because the use of such products suggested that the women was lazy and wasn’t prepared to work hard to achieve beauty. This was because at the time methods such as healthy eating and exercise were seen as the most appropriate way of attaining a desirable figure and looks. Only products that were used on the skin and then removed were seen as acceptable as they would not be seen when in public. For example books containing recipes for homemade beauty treatments were very popular and they promoted the use of natural products such as sugar and lavender to improve the skins appearance.

These views carried on through the middle of the 1800’s and it became more apparent that women were expected to be modest and almost in the background of society as all the attention was supposed to be on their husbands in a very male dominated world where women were viewed as far inferior. However there were some exceptions and people who tried to go against these values such as female performers who had made a name for themselves on stage now wanted to be just as extravagant in the way they looked in public so to maintain their stage persona's.

 Companies became to produce cosmetics using similar ingredients that had been used in the past such as lead and also adding new products such as arsenic which were very dangerous however making a profit from women’s want to attain a desirable look seemed more important. The products were often ordered as to buy them from a shop in public would be condemned and seen as very outrageous. The extent of the harmful effects of the products was unknown as very little tests were done on products before selling them. There were reports of bad reactions that scared the skin, the skin becoming leathery in texture and in general the long term use of the products made it worse than it originally was. The products themselves sometimes reacted with gases in the air for example bismuth which was used in powder products turned black if sulphur was in the air which it would be around gas lights and fires according to the writer Arnold James Cooley.


 However women continued to use such products as there was still pressure on them to look good for their husbands without it appearing that they had used cosmetics in order to do so. Women would go to extreme length such as visiting sellers such as Madame Sarah Rachel Leverson in salons who charged extortionate prices for products she claimed helped to achieve beauty. The visiting of such establishments would be viewed very dimly and so the clients would do what they could to prevent people from knowing they had visited such places, even sometimes being blackmailed by the sellers themselves. The women often didn’t report the blackmailing as if they did it would be known they had visited salons like Madame Sarah Rachel Leversons and therefore would damage their reputations. Only on very rare occasions were sellers sentenced such as Madame Sarah Rachel Leverson who was sentenced for five years in 1868 for fraud.

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